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June 19, 2026·7 min read

Building a herb spiral — four climate zones on three square metres

The herb spiral is the permaculture teaching piece par excellence: a rising dry-stone wall creates four microclimates, from the dry south to the moist water zone — room for almost every kitchen herb. Here is how you build it.

The is probably permaculture's most elegant idea: by spiralling a wall upward you create four different growing positions at once on two to three square metres. At the top it's dry, lean and sunny like the Mediterranean; at the bottom cool, moist and humus-rich. Every herb gets exactly the corner it needs — and everything is within reach at a single spot.

◆ Herb spiral — top viewNS — water/marsh zoneTip — dry, lean, full sunLavender, thyme, rosemary, sageSlope — normal, free-drainingOregano, savory, hyssopBase — humus-rich, moistParsley, chives, chervilWater zone — wetWatercress, mint, water mint
Herb spiral seen from above: a dry-stone wall winds in a single direction from the moist mouth in the south inward and upward to the dry, lean tip. Four microclimates on 2–3 m².

The principle: a mound that turns

The spiral is a small mound (15.7 in–31.5 in high) around which a low dry-stone wall winds. This construction produces several effects at once:

  • Height gradient — water runs off at the top (dry), collects at the bottom (moist).
  • Compass orientation — the south side is warm and sunny, the north side cooler and shadier.
  • Heat store — the stones absorb sun during the day and give off warmth at night, a frost buffer.
  • Habitat — the gaps in the wall are shelter for lizards, wild bees and .

Location & dimensions

  • Full sun, as close to the kitchen as possible (you harvest daily).
  • Diameter 4.9 ft–6.6 ft, height in the middle 15.7 in–31.5 in.
  • The opening of the spiral and the water zone face south — that's where it's warmest.

Build it — step by step

  1. Mark out the area: mark a circle of ~6.6 ft. On heavy soil, dig out 7.9 in and add a layer of gravel / rubble.
  2. Set up the water zone: at the southern foot, sink a small hollow or a buried bucket / bowl as a mini pond. It keeps the lower end permanently moist.
  3. Build the dry-stone wall up in a spiral: set natural stones without mortar, rising from outside toward the inside — the wall grows taller toward the tip. Tilt the stones slightly inward, that gives them grip.
  4. Fill with a gradient in the substrate:
    • Tip: lean, free-draining material — soil with plenty of sand and grit.
    • Middle: ordinary garden soil.
    • Foot: humus-rich soil with .
  5. Let it settle & plant up: let it settle for a few days, then water and set the herbs in by zone.

Which herb goes where?

  • Tip (dry, lean, full sun): rosemary, thyme, lavender, sage, oregano — the Mediterranean crowd that loves lean soils.
  • South/west slope (free-draining, sunny): savory, hyssop, curry plant, marjoram.
  • Foot / north side (humus-rich, fresh, part shade): parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon, lovage.
  • Water zone (wet): watercress, mint, water mint — and by the way best kept in pots, otherwise the mint overgrows the whole spiral.

An honest note: mint, tarragon and lovage are rampant spreaders. Plant them directly and you'll be digging them out everywhere within two years. Set in pots, they stay where they're meant to.

Care

  • Almost never water the tip — the Mediterranean herbs want it dry. Too much water kills rosemary faster than frost does.
  • Replant annuals (basil, dill) each year; cut back perennials in spring.
  • In autumn, protect tender herbs (rosemary in cold areas) with fleece or pot them up.
  • Every few years, renew the lean substrate at the tip — it turns to humus over time.

In the Garden Planner the herb spiral is its own element — it's automatically placed in the sunny southern half of Zone 1, close to the house, where you harvest daily. It pairs well with an insect hotel nearby: the herb flowers are a magnet for bees.

DIYPermaculture classics

Editorial responsibility: Simon Graf, Pranarei n.e.V.

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